Printing and Toning Ilford MG FB Classic Paper: Updated

In my recent post on printing some of my woodlands project I printed on a paper I had not used in a while, Ilford MG FB Classic. I wanted to record some of the characteristics of this paper with respect to exposure, development, and toning. 

The promotional material says the following

  • Double-weight 255g/m2 fiber base
  • Improved maximum density (Dmax)
  • Shorter exposure time
  • Uniform grade separation
  • Choice of glossy and matt surfaces

Exposure

With respect to exposure, I could compare it directly with the MG Art 300 paper from this printing session and found MGFB Classic to be almost exactly one stop faster than the MG Art 300 paper. Probably slightly less than one stop in some of my examples. Because the paper is multi-grade it is difficult to make a general claim as each emulsion has different relative sensitivity across the range of filtration. However this rule of thumb allows you to get close without the trouble of test strips. 

Development

This was a real surprise in this session. The development time was much longer for this paper than the MG Art 300 paper. This is not my first time using this paper and I don't recall such long development times on any paper. My developer for many years has been Moersch Eco 4812 and I currently dilute it at 1+10. My typical development time is 3 minutes, and I don't seem to have any trouble getting good blacks. 

However, in this print round I broke open a new pack of MGFB Classic 12x16 paper. My developer was mixed on 30th July 2020 so only about 6 weeks old and hasn't seen much use since. Eco 4812 has an incredibly long shelf life. So long that I often have to mix a fresh batch due to carry over depletion if I am using a lot of cotton rag or FB paper before the developer is exhausted.

I ran tests strips at the beginning of the print session and wasn't paying too much attention during the development. I ran a 3-minute development and dried and inspected the strip. When I made my first full sized print, I saw under the safelight that as I approached 3 minutes, I wasn't seeing the expected density. I let it run another minute and the blacks deepened. Another minute and it gained more tone. 

I then ran another test strip with different development times. The strip got the same exposure, but I cut it into 4 sections before development. I then developed the sections at 3, 4, 5, and 6 minutes. The results are below. 


Three and four minutes are not complete.  I cannot see the difference between 5 and 6 minutes. 

I looked at the datasheet and it does specify a development time range for Ilford MG Developer of 2-5 minutes so perhaps it is not a problem. 

I made some identical prints Ilford MG Art 300 paper and it developed well in 3 minutes, so I don't think the developer is exhausted. (I have subsequently mixed a fresh batch of developer and found no difference in development time.)

I have begun to wonder if the reason I have not noticed this before is I might have been compensating with more exposure from my test strip. For the rest of the session, I have accepted that I must develop at 5 minutes. 

Update! I determined that my concentrate developer had expired which led to the longer development time. The concentrate was about 5 years old and Moersch says it should last 2 years! So, I got a lot of life out of it. I bought fresh concentrate and development times returned to normal! I remain incredibly happy with this developer. 

Toning

This paper with the Eco 4812 developer runs neutral to cool. In some lighting it can look almost blue. 
I learned recently that I like a little sepia toning to warm up the cool tone slightly. I wanted to first see what would happen on a test print however. I did a test with this paper previously that indicated I might not like the results. However, that print had a lot of sky/cloud so I wasn't sure how useful it was in the end.  

Below is a new test print.

Selenium Tone Test

4           6
2           3
0           1

Test Section Map (Minutes of Toning)

I applied the following steps prior to sepia toning. 
  • Wash 5+ minutes
  • Hypo Clearing Bath 3+ minutes
  • Wash 10 minutes
  • Selenium (1+19) 5 minutes

I then cut the print into 6 sections and made the following toning on each section. I used Moersch MT4 at 1+100.  
  • No Toning
  • 1 minute
  • 2 minutes
  • 3 minutes
  • 4 minutes
  • 6 minutes
After each piece was finished toning I then... 
  • Wash 30 seconds
  • Hypo clearing bath 5 minutes
  • Wash 5 minutes 
I do not like the tone as it has a strong magenta cast at 3 minutes or more so if I were to use it, I would be in the 1-2-minute range. Your taste may be different of course. 

I really like the paper and especially with my most recent images. The matte finish I particularly like. 

Comments

Unknown said…
Thank you for sharing those results. I use Art 300 and MGFB Warmtone (Matte) but your experience with the Classic is still helpful to know.